Makeup for acne-prone skin: choosing, applying and removing it without breakouts

Can makeup cause acne?

Yes. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) calls it acne cosmetica. It typically looks like:

• many tiny bumps, usually on the cheeks, chin or forehead
• whiteheads that rise slightly above the skin, plus some pimples
• tiny breakouts around the lips, which may come from lipstick or lip balm

It’s hard to pin down because it can take a few days to six months to appear after you start a product. And covering new breakouts with the same makeup can keep the cycle going. The good news: it often clears once you stop the product that causes it.

Foundation, blush and concealer can all cause it, and so can hair and skincare products. If your breakouts are mainly along the hairline, see forehead acne and makeup.

What does “non-comedogenic” actually mean?

It means the manufacturer believes the product won’t clog pores (cause comedones). It’s useful, but it helps to know where the claim comes from:

• It’s based on screening tests. In the 1980s, cosmetic companies adopted the rabbit-ear test to back up non-comedogenic claims (Zatulove & Konnerth 1987).
• Rabbit skin is more sensitive than ours. Researchers who developed a human test found substances that are only weakly positive in rabbits are probably fine for most people, with the possible exception of acne-prone people (Mills & Kligman 1982).
• Some feared ingredients test fine. A later rabbit-ear re-test found several esters were positive, but cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, paraffin and petrolatum were not (Nguyen et al. 2007).

So treat the label as a first filter, and your own skin as the final test. More detail in comedogenic ingredients and ingredient checkers.

Skin Realist check: “oil-free” and “non-comedogenic” aren’t the same claim, and neither is a promise. A product with both labels can still break you out, and one with neither might suit you fine. Watch your skin, not just the box.

How to choose makeup for acne-prone skin

• Check every layer. The AAD recommends the labels on makeup and the skincare and hair products underneath. That includes primer and sunscreen; the AAD recommends a non-comedogenic, broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen. Dermalogica Clearing Defense SPF30 is a matte SPF 30 moisturizer Dermalogica positions for breakout-prone skin.
• Lighter is easier to manage. Thinner layers are easier to remove fully at night.
• Introduce one product at a time. Because breakouts can take weeks to show up, adding several new products at once makes it impossible to tell which one is the problem.
• Patch-test on a breakout-prone area for a couple of weeks before using a new product all over your face.

How should you apply makeup over acne?

The AAD suggests:

• a feather-light touch to avoid irritating the skin; brushes can help
• continuing your acne treatment underneath; OTC benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or adapalene can help, with 4 to 8 weeks before you see some improvement
• not picking at spots before covering them; the AAD warns that squeezing pushes material deeper and increases inflammation and scarring

If you use a retinoid or acid, let it absorb fully before makeup, and follow your product’s directions on timing.

How should you remove makeup?

This is where most problems start. The AAD is clear that sleeping in makeup can cause acne, even if the makeup is non-comedogenic.

Every night:

1. Use an oil-free makeup remover, including for eye makeup (AAD). Perricone MD No Makeup Micellar Cleansing Treatment is a water-based, fragrance-free option.
2. Wash gently with a mild cleanser, using your fingertips and lukewarm water. Laneige Water Bank Gentle Gel Cleanser is a fragrance-free gel made to remove sunscreen and makeup.
3. Don’t scrub. The AAD warns scrubbing irritates skin and can make acne flare.
4. Pat dry with a clean towel.

Too tired? The AAD’s fallback is a non-comedogenic makeup-remover towelette. It’s better than nothing, but a proper wash is better.

Also remove makeup before working out. The AAD suggests an oil-free makeup-remover towelette before exercise.

Is double cleansing good for acne-prone skin?

Double cleansing means removing makeup first (often with a cleansing oil or balm), then washing with a regular cleanser. It’s popular, and it can be a gentle way to take off long-wear makeup and water-resistant sunscreen without scrubbing.

What we found:

• No studies show double cleansing improves acne.
• The AAD recommends an oil-free remover, which is different from the cleansing oils and balms often used for double cleansing.
• More washing isn’t better. The AAD lists washing your face throughout the day as a habit that can worsen acne, and recommends washing twice a day plus after sweating.

A sensible middle ground: if you wear heavy or long-wear makeup, a remover step followed by a gentle cleanser is fine. If you use a cleansing oil or balm, choose one that rinses off cleanly, and stop if you notice new tiny bumps. If you wear little or no makeup, one gentle cleanse is enough.

How often should you clean makeup brushes?

The AAD recommends cleaning brushes weekly and not sharing makeup, brushes or applicators. Shared tools can spread oil, bacteria and dead skin cells, and can also pass on pink eye and cold sores. The same logic applies to sponges and puffs.

When should you see a dermatologist?

• Breakouts continue after you’ve stopped the suspect products and treated your acne for 6 to 8 weeks
• You can’t tell which product is causing breakouts
• You have deep, painful spots, or acne is leaving marks you’re covering every day

A dermatologist can help identify the cause and treat the acne itself, which usually means you need less coverage. See when to see a dermatologist about acne.