Niacinamide

What it is

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that dissolves in water. It’s one of the most common actives in skincare because it does several useful things at once, suits most skin types and plays well with almost everything else in a routine. You’ll find it in serums, moisturizers, toners and even some sunscreens and makeup.

What it does

• Supports the skin barrier. Niacinamide helps skin make more of its own ceramides, the lipids that keep moisture in. A stronger barrier usually means less tightness and flaking.
• Helps even out tone. It’s studied for fading the look of dark spots and post-blemish marks over time. It works gently, so think weeks, not days.
• Helps skin look less oily. Many people with oily or combination skin find their skin looks less shiny with regular use.
• Calms the look of redness. It’s often paired with soothing ingredients in formulas for reactive skin.

Who it suits

Almost everyone: oily, dry, combination and sensitive skin can all use it. It’s a sensible first active if you’re new to skincare, because it’s gentle and doesn’t make skin more sensitive to the sun. If a product leaves you flushed or itchy, try a lower percentage or use it every other day.

What to pair it with, and what not to

Niacinamide pairs well with hyaluronic acid, ceramides, retinol (it can help offset retinol dryness) and sunscreen. Using it with vitamin C is fine for most people. There’s nothing it’s known to clash with, but stacking several products that each contain high percentages can tip sensitive skin over the edge, so keep to one strong niacinamide product at a time.

Skin Realist check: Niacinamide is the reliable coworker of skincare: rarely dramatic, quietly useful. A 5% serum you use every day will do more than a 20% one you abandon because it made your cheeks flush.