Licorice Root

What it is

Licorice root is a plant-derived skincare ingredient from plants in the Glycyrrhiza genus. An ingredient list may name Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract or a related licorice-derived compound such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate. These are not necessarily the same material, and one product’s extract should not be treated as equivalent to every licorice ingredient.

Licorice ingredients appear in serums, creams and other products, sometimes alongside other brightening or soothing-focused ingredients. The amount and type of extract vary a lot between products, so effects vary. The exact ingredient and its place in the formula matter; the word licorice alone does not tell you its concentration or expected result.

What it does

• Conditions skin. Licorice-derived ingredients are used in cosmetics to condition skin and contribute to a comfortable feel.
• Is studied for uneven-looking tone. Some licorice compounds have been studied for cosmetic effects on the look of uneven tone. A finished product’s results depend on its form and formula.
• Comes in different forms. A root extract, isolated component and salt such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate should not be assumed to behave identically.

Who it suits

Licorice root may interest you if you want a product formulated to support a more even-looking complexion or simply want a plant-derived conditioning ingredient. It is used in products across different skin types, but that does not promise that every formula will suit you. Examine the rest of the ingredient list, including any fragrance or additional extracts.

Patch-test a new product if your skin is sensitive or reactive. If uneven tone or another concern is persistent, a dermatologist can help you understand your options. A skincare product may improve the appearance of skin, but it should not be presented as treatment for a medical condition.

What to pair it with, and what not to

Licorice-derived ingredients can be part of a routine with niacinamide or vitamin C, and they can be followed by a moisturizer. There is no special pairing required, and stacking multiple products for uneven tone may make a routine harder to assess. Introduce one new formula at a time and use sunscreen as directed.

Skin Realist check: Skincare does not need to smell like candy to earn a place in your routine. The ingredient list is more useful than the dessert association.